What were foreigners' impressions of early Sai Gon?

1861 - Two years after French conquest:

"The visitor to Sai Gon sees on the right bank a street interrupted by occasional large spaces. The houses, mostly made of wood, are covered with leaves from dwarf coconut trees; other houses are made of stone. Their roofs of red tile delight and assuage the eyes. Then there are the curved roofs of the pagodas. Seen in perspective, the Arroyo Chinois and the two small canals that serve as a temporary dock for small boats look shorter than in actuality. An abandoned barn, which is used as a warehouse, looks as if it were about to collapse.



"Clusters of areca palms blend with the sky; the rest of the landscape has little character. Thousands of boats lean against the riverbank and form a floating town. The Annamese, Chinese, Hindus, and a few French soldiers come and go; a quick look at the strange scene is enough to bore the eyes. There is nothing much to see in Sai Gon except the clean stone houses along the Arroyo Chinois Canal; some of these houses are old and have survived rebel wars: Here and there, a nice Annamese farm hides among the areca palms; a little further, on the hills, are the residences of the French and Spanish commanders, and the camp for academic examinations. That's everything or almost everything: Muddy streets, scattered houses, and a relatively miserable mix - this is the town of Gia Dinh, which we call Sai Gon."



At the turn of the twentieth century:

"Whereas Marseilles has Canebiere Street, which is as large as any in Paris, Sai Gon can be proud of Catinat Street (currently called Dong Khoi Street), which is unique in its own way. "Catinat Street slopes gently from Francis Garnier Quay, which might be better named Messageries Maritimes Quay, to the high square of the Cathedral, stretching more than one kilometer between tamarind and mango trees. The busy traffic makes the street seem too narrow for its needs. Seen individually, each house on the river side does not have a special character. Old huts date back to the conquest; more recent constructions have a better appearance. And yet, as a whole, our Cochinchinese sun has a joyful and intimate air, giving the impression of one's home. There are also feminine features: Looking at their details, you may find something ungraceful, yet as a whole, the details blend into a charming harmony.



"European and Asian merchants occupy the lower part of the street, which reaches as far as Espagne Street; the higher section is reserved for official functions. We move quickly from one to another so that we can spend more time in the square in front of the Municipal Theatre, which is a true jewel. "Almost all varieties of our metropolitan trade can be found in Catinat Street: wealthy jeweler hops, crowded bazaars, cozy milliner's shops, comfortable barber's shops, and bookstores displaying the latest publications from Paris. You I can find all the latest Parisian novelties, I including carefully labeled bottles at the chemist's. Nothing is lacking. One can buy everything at a reasonable price. However, it is the groceries that enjoy the greatest popularity in that busy, joyful corner. Chinese and French elements compete with each other. "People used to call Saigon the 'Pearl of the Far East.' This is how Myriam Harry described it: 'Oh! What a beautiful town Saigon is! One cannot help loving it, but one does not know why. Probably, it is because of its space, or probably because of its sleepy look created by green trees, or by white houses having the appearance of Greek temples ..."